5 Great Tips to Prep for Summer Pier Fishing

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Jutting into the Gulf and the Atlantic, fishing piers allow land-bound anglers to access greater depths and species diversity than they might encounter from the shoreline. Opportunity abounds, but success requires planning, preparation and strategy. Here are five pier-preparation tips to plan a successful fishing experience:

1. Tackle for the Pier

Stroll down any fishing pier and you’ll see rod/reel/line setups ranging from 5 1/2-foot spincast models better suited for bream fishing, to surf rods of 10-plus feet. Fish with what your budget allows, but dialing in a happy medium will avail a lot of what the average pier angler will encounter.

For most adults, a 7- to 7 1/2 foot medium heavy spinning outfit with 10- to 20-pound braided main line and 2-3 feet of 20-pound fluorocarbon leader will handle much of the general pier menu. For mackerel, kingfish, bluefish and sharks, adding a wire leader prevents bite-offs, while upsizing line and leader is a good bet for snook and hefty redfish. Scale down for kids, but resist the temptation to go much longer in the rod selection. Piers are inherently cramped settings, so minimize the backcast hazards.

• Specialized Gear: Shark fishing (where permitted) finds anglers hoisting serious tackle suited for offshore bottom brutes and strapping them into rail-mounted rod holders. Anglers targeting big kingfish and tarpon typically prefer conventional gear with smooth drags and high capacity reels.

2. Fishing Presentation Options

In calm conditions, a bare bones rig that places a split shot about 6 inches above a 1/0 or 2/0 circle hook will slowly drift a live shrimp, scaled sardine (“whitebait”) or pinfish into the depths where snook, redfish, trout, snapper and juvenile grouper patrol. Switch to a thin wire kahle-style hook with a peeled shrimp chunk or a fiddler crab and you have a sheepshead getter.

For another simple, but effective pier rig, run a 1/4-ounce jig’s hook point through a shrimp’s tail, bottom-to-top. Align the hook so the jig head rests between the tail fins. For dead shrimp, pinch off the tail for scent dispersion and thread the bait onto the hook tail-first.

On crowded piers, controlled positions minimize line tangles. Accomplish this with a basic fish finder rig — add a 2- to 4-ounce slip sinker flanked by plastic beads to your main line before tying to a barrel swivel. To the swivel’s other side, attach a fluorocarbon leader with a hook appropriate to your bait (live whitebait, live pinfish, cut sardine).

For presentation diversity, try a chicken rig comprising double droppers with 2/0 hooks spaced about 12 inches apart. Anchored with a 2- to 4-ounce sinker, this rig allows you to probe different depths along the pilings, beneath the pier, or over peripheral structure. Try different baits until you determine a preference. Once you dial it in, double-headers are possible, so match your fluorocarbon leader size to the likely species mix.

On a lighter scale, your basic sabiki rig will temp several of the nibblers, but adding fingernail sized shrimp or squid chunks increases the appeal. (A good option for fresh live bait, as well as an easy activity for kids.)

• The Impostors: For maximum pier potential, complement those natural baits with a few artificials. Spoons, Gotcha plugs, jigs with shad tails, artificial shrimp, swimbaits and twitchbaits fit the pier scenario.

3. When to Go

Generally, the best time to go fishing is whenever you can; however, conditions are particularly relevant for land-bound anglers with less mobility than boaters. Tides greatly impact the pier action by governing the proximity of bait schools and the predators that follow them. Similarly, incoming to high tides bring the entire pier into play, whereas outgoing cycles minimize the shallow end potential.

Wind also affects the playing field, by defining the effective casting lanes, tugging at your lines, and blowing underweighted rigs off their intended position. When spacing allows, lead your casts by throwing upwind of your target zone to allow for wind drift.

4. Pier Positioning

Taking the previous notes into consideration, consider how wind and/or tide will affect your casts and bait positioning. With the right tackle and a streamlined rig or lure, you can usually punch into the wind for a natural downwind presentation. Just consider that, unless you anchor your rig with a heavy weight, you’ll have a relatively short time before your bait swings under the pier.

Fishing the downwind side/section offers an easier option for windy days. Whatever your choice, pay close attention to your pier neighbors. Everyone has equal right to fish, but beginners typically assume that their bait stays where it falls, even when the wind blows a massive bow in their line.

Patience and a friendly word of advice usually minimizes the entanglements.

Also, consider that dashing to the pier’s outer end isn’t necessarily the best call. For one thing, that’s where most of the fishing and sightseeing traffic gravitates. Moreover, just about every set of pilings and the gaps in between from the midpoint outward presents realistic opportunities.

Google Earth will show any major rock or reef structure under or near the pier, so leverage these fish magnets. Other hot spots include corners where the pier structure changes direction, overhanging lights (for night fishing) and anywhere you spot baitfish schools.

A pier’s shoreward end is not necessarily devoid of life; in fact, shallow beach troughs often hold whiting, croakers, redfish and pompano. Piers on popular beaches may restrict shallow fishing to avoid obvious risks to the wave splashers.

Where allowed, shallow pier fishing offers a good entry point for kids and beginners. Here, catching pinfish and grunts in a relaxed setting might be more enjoyable than competing for space and waiting for the big bites at the outer end.

5. Gear to Go

The single most impactful piece of pier equipment is the 5-gallon bucket. No one’s diminishing the importance of pliers, bait knife, hand towel, cooler, and drop net, but the humble bucket serves gear holding, lure hanging, hand washing and angler seating needs.

Depending on where you source your 5-gallon bucket, it may come with a lid. If not, Home Depot and Bass Pro Shops offer snap-on lids, while brands such as Flambeau and Frabill make lids with built-in gear holders and hook hangers. Bucket LidZ offers a foam padded lid/seat option.

Some piers offer water spigots, but lacking this option, you can fasten a rope to your bucket handle and lower it to the brine below. Two tips here: First, attaching a couple of 4- to 6-ounce sinkers to the bucket handle forces one side of the rim downward so you can dip enough water. (It’s surprisingly difficult to tip an unweighted bucket.)

Secondly, if you completely fill that bucket with water, you’ll have a tough time lifting it to the pier railing. Half full is plenty and you can always dump and repeat as needed.

Other helpful items:

A sealable plastic storage container keeps your frozen baits (squid, shrimp, clam) neatly segregated from your gear and your water/snacks. In a pinch, a zippered food storage bag will work.

You’ll also appreciate a small kitchen cutting board, or a block of scrap lumber for slicing your baits. Cutting against a pier’s surface (typically concrete) dulls knives.

If you’re geared up for a full day of fishing, a pier cart will save you multiple trips or an awkwardly over-burdened walk. Models range range from specialized aluminum carts with upper and lower storage, bait cutting board, tackle tray and rod holder, to a folding garden cart, or a modified hand truck retrofitted with a milk crate style gear holder and side-mounted rod holders.

Yes, I carry my 5-gallon bucket in my pier cart, but for short, impromptu outings, I can grab a rod, pack my tackle, tools, bait and a water bottle in that bucket and I’m in business.

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