When a Shorter Fly-Fishing Rod is the Best Choice

Fishing rods come in various lengths, from as short as four feet (ultralight spin rods) to a whopping 15 feet long in the case of surf-casting rods, conventional or spin. There are also various lengths of fly fishing rods available, though 9 feet has been the standard bearer for quite some time in both salt and fresh waters. But there is definitely a place for shorter rods.

Fly Rods When There's Tight Quarters

Just like the trout angler who is plying narrow, tree- and brush-lined streams, backcountry saltwater enthusiasts fishing tight quarters might consider switching to rods in the 8-foot category.

I’ve owned and fished rods from 7-foot, 4-inches to 8-foot, 4-inches in cramped quarters, such as mangrove creeks—sometimes tunnel-like—in the Everglades, that snook and baby tarpon call home. Casts are normally shorter than 50 feet, and call for accuracy, and that’s where short rods excel.

I learned early on that the relative stiffness of shorter rods helps with loop control, too. And casters with good casting fundamentals can cast more narrow loops which helps buck a headwind.

Sometimes fly fishers need to tuck a fly underneath overhanging branches, and red mangroves are the perfect example. This is best accomplished by casting on a more parallel-to-the-water plane, and casters discover that short fly rods make that easier.

I often over-line my short rods by one line size when casting my biggest, air-resistant poppers and streamers. Upon hooking up, I can muscle a tough fish from the cover very well with the stiffer, short rod. And once close to the boat, I can fight the fish with the butt, and not be as concerned about mistakenly “high-sticking” which with a more limber 9-footer can result in a snapped top section.

A Real Test Drive

Keep in mind that any fly rod shorter than 9 feet will feel lighter in the hand, all other things being equal. I recall a 9-foot GLoomis 9-weight I favored, built for me by a custom rod maker. I had him build from the same blank (a GLX blank) an 8-footer for a 9-weight line, expressly for bass-bugging Everglades canals and for casting to snook in the backcountry creeks of the Ten Thousand Islands. I was able to “test drive” that 8-foot GLX and switch back and forth to my 9-foot GLX. It was an accurate comparison. Had I compared two difference blank brands, it would not have been possible.

First thing that was apparent was the 8-footer was lighter in hand, naturally, due to a foot less of blank and two fewer guides. The line speed I could generate with the 8-footer over the 9-footer with the same fly, leader and flyline increased, too. Keep in mind that the two fishing scenarios I had the 8-footer built for short to medium distance casts, typically 30 to 50 feet. Both places also had snags, such mangrove roots and in the freshwater canals, sawgrass and lily pad edges, so muscling a bass or snook out of cover is paramount. This is where an 8-foot rod gives you the edge. Generally short rods are less parabolic than 9-footers. They typically flex only in the two feet closest to the rod tip.

Docks and Bridges

For me, short flyrods revolutionized my snook fishing under docks at night (and broad daylight) and around bridges. In the case of docks, it presents the same challenge of those low-hanging mangrove branches of creeks.

When the tide is close to high especially, you are faced with a narrow “window” between the dock planks and water surface. Short rods are easier casted from the deck of a skiff, when you add some “sidearm” to the casting plane, which is mandatory to shoot a fly under the wood. If you are seeing fish in a docklight outside the overhang of the dock, this is not as critical, but fish farther back in the structure call for the cast that tilts your loop at least 45 degrees so that the fly gets under the dock. I swear by short rods to accomplish this. And when I guided fly fishers at night, most could adjust to the rod enough to make these casts and catch more fish.

Upon a hookup, there is quite a fighting advantage with the stiffer short rods, too. And this especially comes into play with big fish around bridges, where short casts with sinking lines is the drill, and you are tasked with muscling strong fish away from line-cutting abutments.

Make Some Adjustments

On your first opportunity with a short rod, your timing will be off. The usual tug of your line on the rod will be less perceptible to you. You may notice that as soon as your line and leader straightens on the cast, and you stop the line with your line hand, the fly may slap the surface a bit hard. That’s simply a function of increased line speed. Remedy this by slowing the rod down on the forward cast—apply less power.

And if you are expecting to make some long casts occasionally with the short rod, you can get that done by using a sharp double-haul, and maybe shortening your leader a bit.

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