Cast Nets: What You Need to Know to Catch Bait

Good whiskey costs money.

So do good cast nets.

The reason some net brands are relatively expensive—$250 to $350—is because the materials, design and craftsmanship put into them costs more. But the results are worth it when you can throw once or twice and fill the baitwell versus throwing a dozen times and mostly landing dead grass and broken sand dollars. Here are some of the elements you need to know when you go net shopping:

Cast Net Facts

• Nominal Size of a cast net is half its diameter or the “radius.” That is, an 8-foot net opens to cover a circle 16 feet in diameter, a 10-footer has a 20-foot diameter and so on.
• Mesh Size is usually listed as the square measure of the mesh, that is ½-inch mesh is ½ inch across when the mesh is relaxed to form a square, as opposed to “stretched mesh” size, which is usually twice the size of the square mesh measurement.
• Lead Line Weight is the amount of lead sinkers, in pounds per foot, sewn into the outer edges of the net that make it sink. More weight equals a net better for deeper water.
• Brailles are the heavier monofilament lines attached to the leadline that allow pursing the net after the throw to trap bait inside.
• The Horn is the hard plastic gathering device through which the brailles run. Some horns are divided into quarters, making tangles less likely.

Selecting a Cast Net

All good cast nets are made of monofilament these days, but there’s good mono and cheap mono—the brand names give you what you pay for. Well-known, quality brands include Betts Morada Series, Black Pearl, Calusa and Lee Fisher among others.

If you’re going to do any serious livebaiting, you’re probably going to want a net that spans at least 8 to 10 feet. This is harder to throw than a smaller net, but for recreational use, it’s usually one-and-done when you’re on the bait, so it’s well worth the extra money and the practice required to throw a big net.

Besides open diameter, one of the other major cost factors in a net is the leads. More lead means more cost, and of course more weight to heave when you throw. If you’re big, young and strong, the biggest, heaviest net you can handle will make you happy on baits found in deeper water at times, like scaled sardines and menhaden. If you’re small, old and weak ... well, that’s why I buy my bait these days.

However, good technique makes it possible even for less physically able anglers to throw a good “pancake,” and many cast net companies have online video to show you how.

For large mullet, most prefer a 10- to 12-foot net, 1-inch mesh and 1 pound to 1.2 pounds per foot lead. You don’t need a huge amount of lead for mullet most of the time because you’ll be catching them in shallow water.

Those who strictly fish for large mullet often go for smaller nets because it’s sometimes necessary to throw them farther to get on spooky fish in clear, shallow water. Some also prefer more economical nets, because they frequently have to throw in areas with lots of oysters, which are murder on the mesh of any net.

For finger mullet, menhaden, threadfins and sardines, smaller mesh but more weight can be better, since they’re often found in deeper water around structure. Typically 3⁄8- or ½-inch mesh and 1.5 pounds per foot do the job but early season bait requires ¼-inch. Smaller mesh sinks slower than large mesh due to water resistance, so you need more weight.

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• This article was featured in the May 2025 issue of Florida Sportsman magazine. Click to subscribe

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