Seatrout bite well after dark.

As we reached the cabin area that night, more of a social setting with the trees gone, it struck me how unique the place was, people reclining on the porches, small fires going, talking about fishing under a sky full of fiery stars, nary a radio intruding on our escape from a diet of sensory garbage. Some of the folks were aged and I got the feeling they’d been sitting there off and on before I was born, digesting the great ancestors of the fish we’d caught. Somehow it seemed just exactly right.

Waiting for the ferry we catch some of our best fish off the dock and this time Sam got two giant flounders and Ely a small snook. Ten-year-old Ely only tolerates life between visits to Cayo Costa and he can’t stand for it to end, so he was fishing as the ferry loaded. He was granted a final dose of glory, battling some big fish from under the dock until it tragically slipped the hook. Was his whole trip ruined? You bet it was. This time it will be a while before he comes right.

GETTING THERE

Ferry Service: You can take the Tropic Star ferry service from Pine Island, for $30 per person, plus $8 per night per parked vehicle. Phone (239) 283-0015. Smaller boats also will run people out from Boca Grande.

Local Boat Ramps:

Placida, Eldred’s Marina (941) 697-1431

Bokeelia, Harbor Hideaway (941) 283-1167

Bokeelia, Mattson Marina (941) 283-4334

Habitation:

- 12 primitive cabins with screen windows, three bunks with mattresses, outdoor grill, indoor and outdoor picnic tables. Cost $30 per night for up to six people; maximum stay two weeks.

- 25 tent sites: $18 per night up to 8 people. Restrooms with cool showers and wash tubs available. Ranger station with ice for sale $2 per bag. Must bring all supplies.

- Tram: one ride from dock to cabin, one ride back.

- Dock for mariners to tie up vessels.

What to Do:

Fish, swim, hike, star gaze, paddle, feel disconnected from the grid.

Ferry will transport canoes and kayaks to island. Good to bring dolly to roll canoe across island. Rangers will not carry them on tram. They can be left for use at dock or paddled a few miles to lagoon or cabin beach. Man powered craft is ideal for fishing the lagoon.

Seasons: Fall through spring, like anyplace in Florida, delightful. Summer comfort depends a lot on the whimsy of no-see-ums and skeeters, whose presence is magnified by rain. Bicycles are handy.

What Fish are There When: Tarpon mid April through July in passes and on beach. Pompano best in cooler months. King and Spanish mackerel, same as tarpon, Spanish in close, kings a mile or so off. Flounder all year, concentrated in October, November. Seatrout all year. Cobia September, October, when stingrays show up. Sheepshead perennial, good among rocks at north end. Snook spring through fall best.

Tackle: Most useful is typical bass tackle; one light rod with 6-pound test for light jigs, one medium outfit with 8-pound for snook; can get away with light tackle due to scarcity of obstructions. Jigheads with small tube lures will catch everything. For big tarpon, large reel with 250 yards capacity 15-pound test, 60-pound mono leader. Plugs, spoons and jigs good for snook and tarpon at night. Clouser Minnow and streamers good for fly fishing.

Bring: Cast net, bug repellent, mosquito coils, food, more than one cooler full of ice, cell phone (not), source of light, cooking fuel, full moon, marshmallows.

FS