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October 2005

Outrageous Andros

Another Andros tuna taken on fly.

A class of visiting students from Ohio paddled kayaks up the creek, which runs for many miles, with a good incoming tide sweeping them along. Two miles up is Tarpon Blue Hole, and the school of feeding tarpon there spooked some of those kids, who first thought they were surrounded by sharks in the 5- to 6-foot range. No one had a fishing rod, and the rolling, splashing fish appeared to be feeding on small crabs or shrimp. The group turned around with the outgoing tide and had an easy ride back. This happened on my last day at Andros, with the report reaching me by lunchtime; a little too late to jump in a kayak and paddle against the tide, with a plane departure at 3 p.m.

Anyway, it would have been too much catching bonefish on the flats, deepwater tuna, trolling for reef grouper and barracuda, and then fighting river tarpon on only a three-day trip. A guy can only take so much, right?

About Andros

This island is the blue hole capital of the world, or so they say, with geography much like Florida. Sinkholes abound and many carry saltwater fish. Some are actually just offshore in shallow water, inside the reef. Others are landlocked, but connected underground to the Atlantic and subject to tidal flow.

The population of huge Andros, biggest island in the Bahamas, has been slowly dropping, which is a rarity these days. Folks get restless and move off to the cities, leaving their country gardens and the quiet life. What’s good for the fish is good for fishermen, however. A few north Andros motels are available. We stayed at Love at First Sight at (242) 368-6068 and Small Hope Bay Lodge at (242) 368-2014. Four weekly, non-stop flights originate from Fort Lauderdale, thanks to Continental Connections (Gulfstream). According to their official, they fly to and from Andros on Friday, Sunday, Monday and Wednesday. The flight scheduling is available on the Continental Airlines website. Or (800) 523-FARE.

 

CAMPING

Camping in The Bahamas is a foreign notion, so to speak, for Bahamians. They’ve always depended on motel, gambling, fishing or diving tourists for revenue. But after touring huge Andros Island, which is 130 miles long and almost empty—with only a tiny town or hamlet every so often, one wonders about the feasibility of a camping or national park, complete with kayaks, campground and grocery store. After all, not everyone can afford beachside motels. Would it be possible to create such a campground?

Only Andros has many miles of unfished flats, deep salt and freshwater creeks running far inland (protected from the wind), many blue holes, the biggest barrier coral reef in the entire country, and the deepest bluewater dropoffs. Imagine a well-placed park with rental kayaks, that can access all of that within only a mile or two. And only a 52-minute plane flight from Florida, without going through Customs in Nassau. They can sign me up any time.

Florida Sportsman has been making tentative inquiries about this, with the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism. It certainly seems worth a try, and we’re hoping someone in Nassau is interested on a trial basis. Limit the fish-taking to only what you eat while there and protect the bonefish.

FS


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