Sight-fishers often first notice those copper pectorals or blue-tipped tail fin.

There can be good fishing for reds on breezy days. But if there is chop on the water you should take into account that many fish have learned to recognize the sound of waves against a boat hull and will move away. Look for the fish farther out or, if possible, anchor the boat and wade.

Many of the stealth rules for flats fishing are equally valid for mangrove shorelines. Using your trolling motor may be convenient, but the vibration and prop whirring can alarm fish. Again, use a pushpole or dead drift if possible. And stay as far away from the shoreline as you can comfortably cast.

The Golden Rule is a good one to follow anytime you go looking for reds. Try to show as much respect and consideration for other anglers as you would like them to show you. There are few actions as thoughtless as roaring by other anglers close in and at high speed. Those of us who have been subjected to such actions by apparently brain-dead throttle jockeys know they can make the fish disappear faster than Penn and Teller. Slower is almost always better.

You can use slow speed zones to your advantage. Fishing these areas means that, except for the occasional scofflaw, you will not have to worry about motor noise spooking your quarry. Redfish in quiet waters are happier redfish. One area I like is the northern edge of the J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge; much of the mangrove shoreline is off-limits to high-speed boat traffic. Inside the refuge are slow-speed and no-motor zones. If you like kayaking or wading, this is a good place to do it.

Mangrove shorelines skirting Pine Island Sound are most productive on the high end of an incoming tide and the beginning of the outgoing. Cast to pockets or skip a bait under overhanging branches. Also, listen for fish smashing bait hidden among the roots.

One of the best tactics for mangrove-shoreline reds is an old standby, a popping cork with a shrimp below. The cork will often bring reds racing out of the underbrush to investigate. Popping plugs have the same effect, as do popper flies. Freelined pinfish and pilchards also work well.

On the flats, watch for tailers and put your shrimp, spoon, plug or fly about two feet in front of the fish’s nose. In mid and late summer, in heavy grass, you may want to cast even closer so the fish will see your bait. But do not put a big plug or spoon too close or it can spook the fish when it lands. This is why unweighted flies are the choice of many anglers.

Some days you’ll spot reds cruising the flats. Many grassflats here make for difficult wading because of silty, mucky bottom. But often the flats’ outer edges, where they drop off into channels or potholes, are sandy and firm. Especially on an incoming tide it is often productive to wade or pole these sandy edges while watching for cruisers. Whether you are in the water or in a boat, do not get right on the edge. Stay back about the distance of a cast and watch for fish moving from either direction along the edge of the dropoff or moving out of deeper water up onto the flats.

The premier time for flats fishing is the lower end of a fast incoming tide, when reds move up into the shallows to chase baitfish or root in the bottom for shrimp, crabs and other feed. The best action usually occurs on days with the biggest tides.

Some good areas for flats action are the MacKeever Keys along lower Pine Island, Buck Key near the south end of Captiva, Foster Point on North Captiva and Panther Key near upper Pine Island.

Nearly the whole western shoreline of Pine Island offers outstanding mangrove fishing. Nautical charts are a help in finding areas that are easy to get into and out of. On the other side of the sound, some good spots are Horseshoe Bay (outside the entrance to Tarpon Bay), the Ladyfinger Lakes section of Tarpon Bay, Buck Key Channel, MacIntyre Creek and the Foster Point area. The last couple of hours of an incoming tide and the first hour of the outgoing are prime times to work the mangroves.