The art of the drop-back dates to the origins of bluewater sportfishing itself. Originally accomplished with an outrigger and bulky conventional tackle, changes in angling styles have lead to alterations in ways to achieve hookups as well.

As recently as a decade ago, spinning tackle had little more than a peripheral role in offshore fishing. Usually it involved some sort of finesse angling like freelining small baits for yellowtails or getting the most from schoolie dolphin. For anything heavier, the revolving spool or conventional reel was the work horse, and still pretty much is.

However, as larger and larger spinners keep entering the market, line capacities are starting to rival those of the big stuff. However, while this gear's lighter weight usually eliminates the need for a fighting belt, and the far easier castablity make it the preferred method for winging a livie to a passing fish, traditional spinning tackle still has a minor shortcoming which needs to be addressed. Once examined, however, it is easily rectified.

One of the benefits of the old-style outfits is that a brake can be applied to keep the bait in place, while still allowing enough leeway that should a fish strike, line will flow from the reel without giving the fish any indication that something is amiss. On cheaper models this is accomplished with a simple clicker button, which pays out line and prevents overruns while at the same time notifying anyone interested there's a fish on. The reel, meanwhile, is left in freespool. Costlier models often have a type of lever drag which is kept in the strike position until something happens, and is then worked accordingly from there.

In either case when the strike comes a built-in drop-back allows the bait to remain with the predator rather than being wrenched away as the boat moves forward. The wary gamester won't be spooked by any untoward tension on the bait, which greatly magnifies the odds that a solid hookup will occur. This is especially true with notably finicky species like sailfish. All that fish has to do is sense that something isn't natural, and unless it's a suicide fish, it will likely go elsewhere for a meal.

Most plain spinning reels can be upgraded with post-purchase additions. Though not costly or difficult to master, these options should be discussed, since mistakes can be made and each system is subject to personal preference. Perhaps the cheapest trick of all calls for a simple No. 12 rubber band. The band is tied to the line right where it comes off the reel. This is accomplished by looping it on itself and tugging firmly. This will prevent slippage. Be careful because these bands break very easily.

The band is then looped on the reel handle, where it will snap upon a strike. The drawback to this system is that a new rubber band is required with each deployment of the bait, calling for a supply to be kept on hand--no big deal, really, since a bag of 100 sells for about 30 cents. The big thing is to remember to bring them if they're not stored on board. Those preferring a more long-term solution might wish to turn to copper wire. This is the same stuff that's used to rig ballyhoo and is available at most tackle shops. It generally sells in reusable plastic tubes of 50 strands and comes in 9- or 14-inch lengths. The shorter variety retails for about a buck and a half, the others a dollar more. Either type will work perfectly well, though the 9-inchers are more readily available.

When using this method, it is always advisable to start with a fresh piece rather than one that's just come off a recently mangled ballyhoo. It is imperative that there be absolutely no kinks in the wire, which could lead to disaster later.

The wiring procedure is simple. A single new piece of copper wire is folded in half. I like the whole length, but some cut it a little shorter. At the fold, leave the end a little rounded rather than pinched tight. Take the two loose ends and, holding them together, wrap the copper around the foot of the reel and twist the tag end back around the main piece with a tight haywire. This will keep the copper near the reel foot where it isn't likely to foul the line. This is important because a stray strand of wire has a great talent for fouling with a fishing line or even the bail of the reel itself. That is also the reason you use the doubled end for the "hook" rather than just the two loose ends.

Once a bait is deployed, the bail is left open. You will notice that line will keep coming off the reel unless you stop it. Take that line and hook it lightly to the copper wire. A little 1/4-inch bend will suffice. If it doesn't hold, fold the copper back a little farther.

What you will find is that with popular offshore live baits like ballyhoo, Spanish sardines, pilchards, goggle-eyes, and tinker and speedo mackerels, this will suffice. For heartier baits like big blue runners or bullet bonitos, it may be necessary to use two strands of wire, but aside from that the procedure is the same.

There's a saying that the best fisherman is the rod holder. If that's true, then the best first mate is that copper wire. On many occasions the bait is scared and the rod bends a bit, but if that line is still on the copper, you know for a fact that the predator doesn't have it yet and you should just leave it be for a moment.

When a fish hits you will know it. This is because a distinctly audible whipping sound is made as a line pops off the copper with a sailfish on. After a while it's a sound you begin to live for. It may not be a loud clicking noise, but if you're paying attention it is more than enough of a cue that things are happening.

The final add-on method is known as the drop-back release. The device, which is manufactured by Du-Bro Products, is essentially little more than a tiny adjustable release clip combined with a small tie-wrap. A pack of two generally retails for just under $4.

While it is certainly possible to fix the clip onto the base of the reel as you would with the copper, most anglers choose to place it elsewhere for two reasons: it makes it difficult to clutch the rod right at the base of the reel, and this area provides tight quarters for getting the line into the clip.

Keep in mind that the tie-wrap is not reusable, so once it's installed, it's there for keeps, unless of course, you have a good supply of extras on hand. Pick the spot carefully since that's pretty much where it's going to stay. The plastic tie is then inserted into a hole at the base of the clip and fastened in place. If you install the release clip on the foregrip just above the reel, make sure you melt off the end of the tie wrap once you cut it short--otherwise you'll slice your fingers every time you grab the rod.

One nice plus with these is that they are completely adjustable for lines up to 40 pounds, thanks to a stainless steel screw on the side. This is especially helpful when compensating for sea conditions or baits of varying sizes. However, it does require a small screwdriver to adjust them. What angler doesn't want to catch more sailfish? For those who don't want to ditch all their trusty old spinners for expensive new ones in the process, a small rubber band, a plain copper wire or Du-Bro release clip are all simple and inexpensive alternatives.