The optimal "SwanC" fighting position.

Noodle rods, long rods with the flex of a limp noodle, came about as an innovation for steelhead and salmon fishermen in the early ‘60s. The original noodle rods were rather short, primitive gizmos made from the antennae-like fiberglass flagstaffs used as safety equipment on bicycles, i.e. “the bike rod.” At the time there weren’t any rod blanks made specifically for noodle rodding. Some enterprising fly fishermen began refitting slow-action fly rods with small spinning reels; theirs were first steps in the birth of a true long rod or “noodle rod.” As the rod-making industry caught up with the new material innovations, particular high modulus graphite and the like, slow-taper rods of 8 to 14 feet were introduced.

It didn’t take long for a few northern transplants and local light-tackle anglers here in Florida to adopt the noodle rod—the ability to present tiny baits at long range, plus the great fight that followed, were enough to entice lots of anglers. With the addition of oversized strike indicators, anglers discovered they could cast all manner of flies and small livebaits, using traditional spinning reels and lines.

The main reason some Florida anglers use noodle rods is the casting distances attainable with the long, light-action rod, light line and small spinning reel. Clear casting bubbles, small popping corks and many other floats can be used to add weight for even more distance. One application I particularly enjoy is presenting very light jigs, 1⁄ 16- to 1⁄ 8-ounce, while drift fishing for trout, pompano and ladyfish. Being a half-baked fly tier, I custom make most of my noodle rod jigs. I’ve got a collection of ersatz “jig flies” that mimics some of my favorite fly patterns. If you don’t want to mess with tying jigs, adding a small split shot just above a favorite fly accom-plishes the same end. You can throw this farther and with less effort than you can flycast, and wind is not nearly so much of a factor.

Having a light bait you can toss a mile can be a big plus when you come up on tailing reds in clear water on a dead-calm day. Standard lures may spook them into the next time zone, but the lighter deliveries possible with the noodle rod can greatly improve your catch.

If you decide to try one of your old fly rods as a modified noodle rod, here are a couple of suggestions: Start by taping your spinning reel well up on the handle above the flyreel seat. Some fly rods offer optional fighting butts that will fit the bill, allowing you to lock the spinning reel in a more manageable position. You’ll need the extra butt length to couch the rod along your forearm or against your tummy when reeling on a big fish. More importantly, the added butt length allows you to employ the “Swan C” fighting position, which optimizes the highly parabolic character of a noodle rod blank. The “C” describes the extreme bend achieved by placing the butt of the rod in the palm of your reeling hand and applying added pressure with the full length of the rod blank.

Slow-taper rods soften the impact of fighing fish with light lines.

You’ll also want to modify your fly rod by replacing the tiptop with a larger, spinning rod style tip. Stainless steel or ceramic tip tops enhance casting distance and reduce line and guide wear. This is especially critical if you employ small-diameter, gelspun poly braided lines. I like 10-pound test braid on my rigs. If your fly rod has a fairly large stripping guide (first from the reel), that will aid in casting. If not, replace it with a larger spinning rod guide to open up the angle from the reel spool to the rod blank. Choose a reel with a small-diameter spool to further reduce the angle and drag created by the line peeling off the reel when casting. Any ultralight reel that holds 100 to 150 yards of 10-pound braid will do.